WHEN THE WORLD TURNED ORANGE. If we are going to dip our toes in the natural wine pool, why not go all in on the deep end and dive for the truly unusual? I first encountered orange wine (white wine grapes left to macerate with skin contact for an extended period of time) some years back, tasting the orange wine made from Pinot Gris by Yoshiaki Sato in Central Otago. Unusual, but quite interesting, as the wine develops aromatics and structure that you otherwise wouldn’t necessarily encounter in a white. Would I aggressively search for orange wines thereafter? Probably not, but it left me with sufficient curiosity to repeat the experiment on a future occasion.
Orange wine is not a hipster revolution. In fact, it predates white wine, and is indigenous to Georgia and Armenia. Today, Friuli in Italy and Slovenia are the hotspots for this peculiar winemaking, although the technique has emerged in a number of locations across the globe. Dario Prinčič is one such winemaker, based in the Collio region of Friuli, one hour’s drive northeast of Venice. Prinčič has been at it for some time, making his unusual orange wines from Pinot Grigio, Ribolla Gialla and Jakot (formerly known in the region as Tocai (Tokaj) Friulano). Notice the nifty name change after a naming dispute with Hungary by reading the name of the grape backwards. Prinčič was reportedly forced to consume his initial vintages at a local tratoria before the world was ready to make a leap to the past.
The 2014 Dario Prinčič Pinot Grigio appears somewhere between rusty red and copper toned in the glass. The nose is pungent, full of aromatics that I have a hard time placing. Hibiscus, Kirsch, some chemical notes, maybe compost or decaying leaves? Nothing really makes sense for Pinot Grigio – and phenolic compounds are out playing tricks. Acidity is prominent and fresh with a medium body, and quite present dry tannins for a white wine grape. Aromas continue to roller-coaster across the palate, but now turning into sweet red apples and baking spices. Texture almost crunchy. For when you feel experimental - or that next black glass tasting...
It has been to long old friend. Kultvin av kultmannen och tillika magikern Enzo Pontoni. Jag hade helt glömt den rikedom, balans och generositet som kommer från ett handlag av bästa snitt och ett råmaterial i världsklass.
💛🖤Dettagli in giallo e nero: l’edizione 2018 di @pordenonelegge.it si è appena conclusa e ci resteranno nel cuore i sorrisi degli angeli, gli applausi degli spettatori e le meravigliose parole degli autori... Aspettiamo già la prossima edizione! 💛🖤